
Craftsmanship and Leather Thickness
The Leather Thickness Behind the Hand-Sewn Welted Method – The Essence of Craftsmanship
Hello, I’m Kojin Koga, a shoemaker from NIHIL bespoke shoe.
In this article, I want to focus on the “leather thickness” that supports the core of the “hand-sewn welted method,” which I discussed in the previous post. In shoemaking, leather thickness is more than just a physical measurement; it significantly influences the durability, comfort, and repairability of the shoes.
Requirements for Sole Materials
In the hand-sewn welted method, strict requirements are demanded of sole materials. They must possess durability, flexibility, and workability, with thickness measured down to the millimeter to harmonize with craftsmanship.
At NIHIL bespoke shoe, we use leather with optimal thickness for each part of the shoe, carefully considering how each component contributes to the overall performance.
Leather Thickness by Component
1. Insole – Thickness: 4.2 mm
- Material: Relatively soft leather from the shoulder area.
- Role: Acts as the foundation that supports the foot’s shape, absorbing pressure evenly.
- Characteristics: The substantial thickness holds the rib and stitches firmly, enhancing the shoe’s stability.
2. Welt – Thickness: 3 mm
- Material: Hard leather from the bends (waist area).
- Role: Connects the upper to the sole, forming the framework of the shoe.
- Characteristics: Adequate hardness ensures strength during stitching and withstands stress during repairs.
3. Outsole – Thickness: 4.8 mm
- Material: The densest part of the bends (butt area).
- Role: Provides a sole that withstands contact with the ground and resists wear even after prolonged use.
- Characteristics: A balance of flexibility and rigidity delivers comfort while walking.
The Craft of Judging Thickness
Even within the same leather, characteristics vary by area. Through experience and expertise, craftsmen select the appropriate thickness and part of the leather, ensuring the shoe maintains its overall balance.
Additionally, by utilizing data obtained from shadow shoes, we can make precise adjustments tailored to the customer’s lifestyle and intended use.
The Value of Leather Thickness
- Durability: Using thick materials results in shoes that endure long-term use.
- Comfort: Provides a snug fit that reduces fatigue while walking.
- Repairability: Enables repeated sole replacements while maintaining the original shape, contributing to an eco-friendly structure.
Conclusion
The hand-sewn welted method is supported by meticulous attention to the often “invisible” aspect of leather thickness. At NIHIL bespoke shoe, we pay close attention to this detail, creating shoes that our customers cherish for years to come.
In the next blog, I will discuss the role of the “shank (reinforcement) and nails” that further support this method. Please look forward to it!
Learn more about NIHIL bespoke shoe
NIHIL bespoke shoe Official Website
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